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Parquetry falls into two categories mosaic and block. Mosaic parquetry is composed of “fingers” of timber laid into a chequerboard pattern. Block parquetry is the general term for any floor pieced together from individual blocks of timber. Basket weave and her-ringbone are the most common block parquetry patterns.  Image credit powered by Flickr.com (mlb297) Installation: installing a parquetry floor can be very disruptive. Ideally, the pieces should be brought to the house and allowed to acclimatize for at least a week before being laid. On average, the complete procedure takes around three weeks, but the resulting floor will be under the feet of your children. Mosaic parquetry comes partly assembled from the supplier in panels about 500 mm square. Block parquetry arrives at your doorstep in packages containing hundreds of individual blocks. In both cases, the parquetry pieces are glued in a pattern directly on to a sub-floor of either concrete or particleboard.  Maintenance: Parquet

The popularity of timber flooring seems only to increase as the decade advances. Tasmanian oak are among today’s most popular options for new floorboards.    “Recycled” timber floorboards salvaged from old homes and “remilled” boards cut from larger pieces of timber continue to appeal to those who value the patina of age.  Installation Replacing an old, damaged tongue and groove timber floor with a new one is relatively straight-forward job, the new floorboards simply slotting in over the existing joists and bearers. The task becomes more difficult if the timber floor is to be laid over a concrete or tiled floor. In this case the most common approach is to fix battens across the hard floor then the floorboards across the top Timber must be acclimatized before it installed. Floorboards which have not been properly prepared may expand causing the floor to buckle or shrink, and gaps to appear.  Maintenance Polyurethanes, oils and wax – indeed most of the popular finishes or timber – must

Unnecessary windows: Cover with decorative inside shutters. Cover window with wall board and make bookcase or closet to cover. Place shelves in front of window or create a shadow box and use as knickknack shelf.  Cover with draw curtains in bright colors. Image credit powered by flickr.com (lhboudreau) Large windows: cover excess portion with valance and drapes. Shorten the window with a window box. Small windows: hang wide drapes and curtains above and beyond the window margins, and to the floor. Create a border with wallpaper, hanging drapes outside the border. High narrow windows: Hang curtains partly outside window frames. Treat group of windows as one with valance or cornice board. High windows on the side of fireplace: Place or build bookshelves under the windows. Paint them to match the wood-work or walls. Eliminate fussy drapery treatments. Block out windows with shelves or shutter. Make window background for shelves and display colorful glassware. If you don’t need the lig

Desks: Generally desks are over-cluttered. They should have not more than 3 to 4 accessories. Wastebaskets should accompany the desk.  Image credit powered by flickr.com (Shortcircuit602) These may be made interesting by covering with wallpaper, old maps or prints, chintz greeting cards, etc. Or bound in leather to resemble a book set. Mirrors: Mirrors may be used effectively in any room. Frames should harmonize with decor in style. Frames may be metal or imitation of metal (as federal), carved, plain molded or painted wood (as Pennsylvania Dutch), painted glass mirror, mirror baguettes (either flat, shadowbox style or beveled out). The frame may be in period style. They may be oval shaped rectangular, or shaped to fit a particular area.Mirrors set into a wall are effective in adding light and size to the room. Mirror should not be hung where the sun shines on them all day. This tends to create a haze in the mirror. An inexpensive way to create a mirrored wall is to mount many small

Colored lamps may be outside coated (for indoor use only), ins i de coated or enameled or natural colored (amber, blue, green, ruby only). Frosting diffuses light. White coated bulbs give better diffusion, but lose 15 percent of the light. Image credit powered by flickr.com (BFS Man) The type of bulb you use will affect the color scheme, in as much as colors do not appear the same under artificial light as they do in daylight. Incandescent lights are warm a nd emphasize the warm colors-reds, yellow, etc. Under incandescent light, blues present special decorating problems. Dark walls look richer under incandescent light. Fluorescent light tends to intensity the cooler colors-blues, green, etc. The fluorescent lights are made in various colors to give three variations of this hard white light. A daylight fluorescent lamp is blue-white, is hard on colors but gives good illumination to blend with daylight. It is most often recommended for use in the kitchens. The “3500 white” is the mos

Valances: To hang accross one or group of windows. Maybe stiffened (with buckram or board) or unstiffened ; straight, scalloped, ruffled, pleated, swag, cascaded, festooned, etc. Materials may be damask, silk, velvet, brocatelle, chintz, etc. For formal rooms; simple cotton or rayon fabrics for informal rooms. Uses: formal drapery to floor, over curtains or over curtains and venetian blinds  Image credit by flickr.com (emily@ go haus go) Cornices: Wood painted or covered with fabric shaped or straight at corners. Uses: formal and informal rooms. Draperies: May be straight, looped back, pinch-plated at the top, traverse (to close by pulley and a cord or by hand drawing). They may be hung from straight or circular rods, from cornice or a valance. Uses: any room. Window seats: Seat cushions may match or tie in with draperies. Uses: for narrow dormers acloves, by window. Dutch Windows:  Wood frames on 4 sides of windows, cut in interesting outline. Shutters: Wood, Seldom used for orig